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complete guide to vitamins in skincare

Are you eating your vitamins?

No, I’m not talking to you. I know you’re a good girl who’s eating her veggies, RIGHT?

I’m talking to your skin. It needs its own daily fix of vitamins to stay beautiful and young. But, which ones should it eat, and when?

I know, it can be confusing. That’s why I’ve put together this little guide to make sense of the ABC’s of vitamins:

Vitamin A

WHAT’S VITAMIN A?

A fat-soluble vitamin that comes in many forms:

  • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
  • Retinaldehyde
  • Retinol
  • Retinyl Palmitate
  • Retinyl Retinoate
  • Tretinoin (retinoic acid – prescription only)

Basically, if there’s a “retin” in there, it’s a form of vitamin A.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN A DO FOR SKIN?

Vitamin A has plenty of skincare benefits, my beautiful smart friend:

DOES VITAMIN A HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Sadly, yes:

  1. Irritation: If you’ve never used it before, vitamin A can irritate and dry out your skin. Start with a small concentration once or twice a week and build up both frequency and concentration gradually.
  2. Sun-sensitivity: Retinol makes skin more susceptible to sun damage, so use it only at night.

WHAT FORM OF VITAMIN A SHOULD YOU USE?

Almost all forms of vitamin A (hydroxypinacolone retinoate is the exception here) need to be converted into retinoic acid into the skin. It works like this:

Retinyl palmitate > Retinol > Retinaldehyde > Retinoic acid

Usually, the further away a form of Vitamin A is from retinoic acid, the less effective it is. So, I’d go with retinyl palmitate only if I had super sensitive skin.

So, to recap:

  • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: no conversion needed!
  • Retinaldehyde: 1 step
  • Retinol: 2 steps
  • Retinyl Palmitate: 3 steps
  • Retinyl Retinoate: 1 step

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN A?

  • Anyone who’s serious about antiaging
  • Anyone with oily and acne-prone skin (unless you’re on benzoyl peroxide)

WHO SHOULD NOT USE VITAMIN A?

  • Anyone who’s on benzoyl peroxide
  • Women who are pregnant, trying to conceive or are breastfeeding
  • People with very sensitive skin

WHAT ARE THE BEST SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN A?

Related: Which Strength Of Retinol Do You Really Need?

Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):

Vitamin B1

WHAT’S VITAMIN B1?

A water-soluble vitamin in the B family. On ingredient lists, it goes by the name Thiamine HCL.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN B1 DO FOR SKIN?

Thiamine helps convert food into energy and plays a major role in nerve functions.

DOES VITAMIN B1 HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Well, it’s not dangerous and you don’t want to be without it. That can cause weakness, chronic fatigue and nerve damage.

But, it doesn’t do anything when you put it on the skin. So, if you were considering buying that expensive moisturizer because it has vitamin B1, don’t. Your wallet will thank you.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN B1?

  • No one (in skincare, obvs – you still need to eat it!)

Vitamin B2

WHAT’S VITAMIN B2?

Vitamin B2 is a micronutrient. You probably know it as riboflavin.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN B2 DO FOR SKIN?

It plays a big role in cellular growth and respiration and helps your body metabolize what you eat.

DOES VITAMIN B2 HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Well, this is another vitamin that’s useless when you topically apply it to the skin.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN B2?

  • No one (again, I’m only talking about skincare, folks!)

Vitamin B3

WHAT’S VITAMIN B3?

It’s the most multi-tasking member of the vitamin B family. Its superhero name is niacinamide.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN B3 DO FOR SKIN?

Let me count the ways it helps skin:

DOES VITAMIN B3 HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Nope. That’s the best part. It’s totally safe to use. For everyone.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN B3?

  • Everyone!

WHAT ARE THE BEST SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN B3?

Related: Spotlight On Niacinamide

Vitamin B5

WHAT’S VITAMIN B5?

It’s the alcohol form of vitamin V panthotenic acid. Can you guess its common name? Yep, it’s panthenol.

By the way, don’t let the word “alcohol” scare you. Panthenol is the good kind of alcohol.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN B5 DO FOR SKIN?

This is another multitasker, my friend:

  • Helps repair skin
  • Hydrates skin
  • Keeps oil production under control
  • Soothes skin

DOES VITAMIN B5 HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Nope, this one is safe for everyone, too.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN B5?

  • Everyone, but it’s particularly good for sensitive skin

WHAT ARE THE BEST PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN B5?

Vitamin C

WHAT’S VITAMIN C?

It’s a water-soluble vitamin that comes in many different forms:

  • Ascorbic acid polypeptide
  • Ascorbyl glucosamine
  • Ascorbyl glucoside
  • Ascorbyl palmitate
  • Ester-C
  • Ethyl ascorbic acid
  • L-ascorbic acid (pure form)
  • Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
  • Sodium ascorbyl palmitate
  • Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
  • Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Basically, if it has “ascorb” somewhere in the name, it’s a form of vitamin C.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN C DO FOR SKIN?

It makes your skin look awesome:

  • Boosts the production of collagen, which keeps skin firm
  • Brightens the complexion
  • Fights the free radicals that cause premature aging
  • Lightens discolourations
  • Prevents UV damage (especially when paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid)

DOES VITAMIN C HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

A couple:

  1. Irritation: If your skin is sensitive, vitamin C may irritate it.
  2. Sun-sensitivity: It can make skin more susceptible to sun damage, so use it with sunscreen or, better, at night.

WHICH FORM OF VITAMIN C SHOULD YOU USE?

L-ascorbic acid is the most effective. But also the most unstable. That means it won’t stay effective for long.

I’d go with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate because it’s fairly stable, is effective at low doses and fairly gentle.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN C?

  • Anyone who is serious about antiaging
  • People with light discolourations

WHO SHOULD NOT USE VITAMIN C?

  • Be careful with it if you have sensitive skin

WHAT ARE THE BEST SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN C?

Related: Types Of Vitamin C In Skincare Products

Vitamin D

WHAT’S VITAMIN D?

It’s a fat-soluble vitamin that’s formed in your skin by sunlight. That’s why lots of folks are telling you to skip the sunscreen.

Don’t listen to them. You don’t need to get wrinkles (or, worse, skin cancer) to get your vitamin D fix. Just gobble on fortified food or pop a supplement.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN D DO FOR SKIN?

A couple of important things:

DOES VITAMIN D HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Nahhh. This is another safe vitamin.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN D?

  • People with sensitive skin
  • Acne sufferers

WHAT ARE THE BEST SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN D?

  • One Love Organics Vitamin D Moisture Mist ($39.00): available at The Detox Market
  • Sanitas Skincare VitaRich Serum ($58.00): available at Dermstore

Related: Vitamin D: How To Get Your Dose Without Skipping Sunscreen

Vitamin E

WHAT’S VITAMIN E?

It’s a fat-soluble vitamin that comes in many forms:

  • D-alpha-tocopherol
  • D-alpha-tocopherol acetate
  • Dl-alpha tocopherol
  • Dl-alpha tocopherol acetate
  • Tocopherol
  • Tocopheryl acetate
  • Tocotrienols

Basically, if “tocopher” is there, you’re dealing with vitamin E.

P.S. The “d” prefix means vitamin E is derived from a natural source, such as wheat germ; the prefix “dl” means it’s synthetic.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN E DO FOR SKIN?

Wonders for your skin, baby:

  • Moisturizes skin, reducing water loss
  • Fights the free radicals that cause premature aging
  • Helps protects your skin from UV rays (when paired with vitamin C)
  • Helps skincare products last longer

DOES VITAMIN E HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Not really. Unless you buy a huge jar because you think it can heal scars. That’ll hurt your wallet cos it ain’t true.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN E?

  • Everyone.

WHAT ARE THE BEST SKINCARE PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN E?

Related: Vitamin E In Cosmetics

Vitamin F

What’S VITAMIN F?

A fake vitamin. It’s how you call fatty acids that your body doesn’t create. For example:

  • Arachidonic acid
  • Linoleic acid
  • Linolenic acid

WHAT DOES VITAMIN F DO FOR SKIN?

A few things:

  • Hydrates skin
  • Helps repair skin’s protective barrier
  • Fights the free radicals that cause premature aging

DOES VITAMIN E HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Not, really. You can use it safely.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN F?

  • Everyone can use it, but it’s best suitable for dry skin.

WHAT ARE THE BEST PRODUCTS WITH VITAMIN F?

Vitamin H

WHAT’S VITAMIN H?

This is tricky. Vitamin H is considered part of the vitamin B family. That’s why it also goes by the name vitamin B7. Confused much?

You probably know it under another name: biotin. It’s the water-soluble vitamin produced by the body you’re meant to take for healthy hair and nails. But what does it do for the skin?

WHAT DOES VITAMIN H DO FOR SKIN?

Mmmm. Here’s what I know. It has moisturizing properties.

DOES VITAMIN H HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

Well, it’s not dangerous, but…

Biotin can’t penetrate the skin, so there’s no point putting it there.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN H?

  • No one (I’m only talking about topical application on the skin here, folks).

Vitamin K

WHAT’S VITAMIN K?

A fat-soluble vitamin produced in the liver. Its other name is phytonadione.

WHAT DOES VITAMIN K DO FOR SKIN?

It plays a part in the coagulation process. That’s why some folks are suggesting it may help with dark circles.

One study confirms that. But, there’s a catch. Vitamin K was used together with retinol and vitamins C and E, so we don’t know how (or even if!) effective it is on its own.

DOES VITAMIN K HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECTS?

For your wallet, if it doesn’t turn out to be the miracle cure for your dark circles you hoped it to be. Otherwise, nope.

WHO SHOULD USE VITAMIN K?

  • Those of you with serious dark circles to treat and enough money not to care if it doesn’t deliver

The Bottom Line

Vitamin B3’s a must for everyone. So, don’t cheat and get your daily fix. And if you’re serious about anti-aging and your skin isn’t too sensitive, get a healthy dose of vitamins A and C every few days. If you want to, you can sneak in some of the other vitamins, too. The more, the merrier, right?

About Gio

Hi, I'm Gio. I'm a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever - every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what's worth the splurge and what's best left on the shelf - using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.