Another form of Vitamin C? Aren’t there a gazillion already?!
- L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure (and most unstable) one
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is super stable
- Ascorbyl Glucosamine is better at fading dark spots
I could go on, but let’s leave it at that, shall we?
Point is: yes, there are already a gazillion forms of vitamin C out there. Do we really need one more?
Well, we’re getting it anyway. Meet Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
What Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is the newest form of Vitamin C to hit the shelves. It’s made by mixing Vitamin C with Isopalmitic Acid.
What makes it different from all the rest? It’s oil-soluble, so it penetrate skin faster than any other form of vitamin C out there.
Here’s the deal: your skin has a lipid (oil) protective layer that keeps moisture in and germs out. If you’ve paid attention in your chemistry class, you know that water and oil don’t mix. That’s why anything water-based needs the helping hand of a good delivery system to penetrate your skin.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is soluble in oil so it easily slips into the skin.
Related: Does Your Skin Really Absorb 60% Of What You Put On It?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
What Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Do For The Skin?
Like all forms of vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
- Fights the free radicals that cause premature aging
- Boosts collagen production, keeping skin firm
- Increases UV photoprotection, helping to reduce sun damage
- Lightens dark spots and discolourations
Basically, it does what other forms of Vitamin C do. But, because it penetrates skin faster and more easily, it works better. 🙂
Related: The Complete Guide To Vitamin C In Skincare
Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Have Any Side Effects?
Of course, it has. Vitamin C always has the potential to be irritating, especially if you have sensitive skin. Pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is the worst culprit whereas its derivates are said to be gentler.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate may be the exception. Studies have shown it can irritate sensitive skin.
It’s the other side of the coin: if Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate can penetrate skin more deeply and deliver a more powerful dose of Vitamin C, it makes sense it’s also more likley to irritate your skin.
If your skin is pretty resilient or used to Vitamin C, I wouldn’t worry. But, if you have sensitive skin, I’d stick to another form of Vitamin C. Just in case.
Related: Types Of Vitamin C Used In Skincare
What Are The Best Products With Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
- The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% In Vitamin F (£14.90): available at Asos, Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty and Sephora
- Zelens Power C High Potency Vitamin C Treatment Drops (£125.00): available at Cult BeautyÂ
The Bottom Line
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is one of the most powerful forms of Vitamin C to fade away wrinkles and dark spots. It’s still fairly new but I’m sure it’ll pop up in more and more skincare products in the very near future!
I’m a user of The Ordinary one for this form of vitamin: I truly love it: It leaves the skin soft and supple and I have less breackout even during my period. My skin is combination and it is perfectly OK: I use the japanese layering technique and I apply the serum as a first step and still my makeup won’t slip… So I’m sure even oily skin type can use it. I’m also curiuous about the two other product you have mentionned but they are quite pricey.. :/
Diamant, yes most vitamin C products out there are very expensive. The Ordinary is very unordinary in this and yet it works wonders. 🙂
Is it better to use it at daytime or nighttime? One youtuber said it was better to use vitamin c concentrations above 15% at night…what do you think?
Camila, there are two schools of thought. One who says that vitamin C can increase sun sensitivity so should be used at night. The other, which I follow, believes that vitamin C can boost the effectiveness of your sunscreen so is better used in the morning.
You can use it at night if you prefer but if you wear sunscreen every day, using it in the morning won’t be a problem.
Hello, Gio,
And thanks for this informative blog post! I’ve been searching for publications on ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE and that’s how I came across your review of this vitamin C form. What I’ve been looking for is publications offering substantial and well-argued evidence that ascorbyl tetraisoalmitate is as effective as L-AA in boosting collagen synthesis. I have not been able to find information about studies and reports on this and am stll debating with myself whether to opt for L-AA or this newer form. My main concern in anti-aging. I’d greatly appreciate your comment.
Elena, AT boosts collagen production but not as much as LAA. No derivative is as effective as LAA. Unfortunately, LAA is very unstable and irritating. You need to finish that bottle quickly and be sure it’s fresh when you buy it.
A lot of people, me included, prefer a less effective derivative that’s gentler and lasts longer. But if you’re ok with the drawbacks of LAA, are willing to use it up quickly and it doesn’t irritate your skin, then go for it.
Hello, I was researching about ascorbyl tetraisoalmitate because I came across a skin care line called truth treatments. They have a vitamin c serum with AT and costs 199.00. They said the ingredient AT is super expensive so I suppose that’s the reason for such high price of their vitamin c serum. Do you know this product and can you tell me if I need to pay this much for AT serum or is something like say from Ordinary is fine.
Alicia, AT may be more expensive than other forms of Vitamin C but there’s no reason to pay that much. If your skin is dry, The Ordinary will do just fine. Otherwise, you can try one of the other two serums in this post. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the ingredient list for the truth treatment serum so I can’t tell you if it’s good – or even if it contains enough AT to work!
I’ve been using DIY 7% ascorbyl tetraisoalmitate in rosehip oil for years! I bought mine from lotioncrafter.
Jasmine, thanks for sharing. Glad it’s working well for you.
Hi,
I’m looking for a new vitamin C serum to try. I’ve been using Mad Hippie, and i’ve found it very useful for preventing the oxidization of my blackheads; they are much lighter and less noticeable since I’ve used it. I’ve read that this is caused by Vitamin C in the form of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
I was wondering if there are any other forms of Vitamin C has this effect on oxidization of blackheads? Mad Hippie is very expensive where I’m living right now :'(
Thanks, and love your blog!
Sophia, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate has similar effects to SAP. The Ordinary has a MAP serum that’s very cheap. Hope this helps.
Hello form Argentina!
So is or is not the Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate an ascorbic acid? Because I use from The Ordinary the EUk 134 who specif say “Do not use with highly acidic formulations such as suspensions of ascorbic acid” but then they recomend by email to use both (EUK + Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F) in my AM routine. I´m so confused, please help me =(
Agueda, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a derivative of ascorbic acid. It doesn’t require such an acidic pH as ascorbic acid to work so you can mix them safely.
Adina, they’re both oil-soluble forms of vitamin C, so maybe that’s where the confusion comes from! They’re both new forms and there are no studies showing which one is more effective yet. You’ll have to try both to find out which one your skin likes best.
can you combine Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution like Ordinary with a pure Roehip Oil?
Margarette, if you have dry skin, you can.
I’ve just ordered the (new?) C+C Serum from Stratia. It contains both 10% L-ascorbic acid and 5% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in a silicone base. Have you had a chance to review it yet? I was first turned on to Stratia through your blog post and have been really happy with it.
Nadine, I haven’t yet. But judging from the ingredients, it sounds wonderful!
Hi GIo!
I’m willing to give a try at the ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate but it contains 82% of polyinsturated fat which are unstable fatty acids, do you think that could be more harmful for the skin to use a serum that contains so much pufa’s?
What is your opinion about that?
Thank you
Ema, there is no research that PUFA harms skin. I know some experts claim they do, but they haven’t been able to provide convincing proof yet.